Gas burner not igniting
Soon A burner that will not light is usually a dirty or wet burner, not a gas fault, but any smell of gas that does not clear right away is an emergency: leave the building and call the gas utility.
What this symptom might mean
On a modern gas range, turning the knob to Lite sends a spark from a small ceramic electrode beside the burner while gas flows from the ports around the burner head. If the spark is there (you hear clicking) but there is no flame, the gas is usually not reaching the spark: ports blocked with food, a burner cap knocked off centre, a burner head still wet after cleaning, or an electrode that has been pushed out of position. GE and Whirlpool both put those first. Whirlpool adds a control lockout that engages after a power cut on some models, and a downdraft vent blowing the gas away from the spark.
If there is no clicking at all, the spark side is the question: the range may have no power (the burners need electricity to spark even though they burn gas), the spark module may have failed, or the switch behind that knob may be worn. If every burner is out at once, the gas supply may be shut. Any of the gas-side possibilities, from the supply valve to the burner valves and the manifold, are for a certified technician, and are not something to probe at home.
Safe checks you can do first
- Smell first. If you smell gas and it does not clear within a few seconds of the knob being turned off, do not operate any switch, open a window if you are beside one, leave the building, and call your gas utility (In Ottawa, Enbridge Gas at 1-877-542-2630, 24 hours. In Gatineau, Enbridge Gaz Québec (formerly Gazifère) at 1-866-771-8321, 24 hours. If anyone feels unwell or the smell is strong, call 911 first.) from outside. Come back to the checks below only if there is no smell.
- Burner cap seating. With the range off and cool, lift the cap off the affected burner and set it back so it sits flat and centred on the burner head. A cap knocked askew when a pot was moved is a common cause.
- Dry and clean the burner. If the burner was recently cleaned or had a boil-over, lift the cap and head and let them dry fully; a warm (not hot) oven for half an hour works. Clear the small ports around the head with a straight pin or soft brush without enlarging them, and wipe the white ceramic electrode clean and dry. Refit the head and cap properly.
- Knob position. Turn to the Lite position and hold briefly; the spark only fires there. A burner may need several seconds and, per GE, up to a dozen clicks after cleaning.
- Power and lockout. Plug a lamp into the range's outlet and check the breaker; no power means no spark. If the display says Locked or shows a padlock, hold the lock key for three seconds.
- Downdraft or fan. If a downdraft vent or a strong hood fan is running, turn it down and try again; moving air can pull the gas away from the spark.
Nothing above involves gas, wiring, refrigerant or removing panels. Those are technician-only: Anything on the gas valves, manifold, orifices, connector or supply line, including tightening fittings; Testing or replacing the spark module or electrode wiring; Leak testing or adjusting flame size or air shutters.
Repairs a technician may recommend
After inspection, not from the symptom alone.
- Spark electrode replacement. When the electrode is cracked, will not spark or is out of position and cannot be reseated.
- Spark module replacement. When no burner clicks with power confirmed, or clicking will not stop.
- Burner switch or harness replacement. When one knob does not trigger a spark or triggers it continuously.
- Burner head, cap or orifice cleaning and replacement. When ports are corroded or the head is warped. Gas-carrying parts are handled by certified technicians only.
- Burner valve or manifold repair. When gas is not reaching a burner with the ports clear. Certified technicians only; never a home repair.
- Gas supply and connector check. When all burners are out; our certified technicians check the appliance shut-off and flexible connector and refer anything beyond the appliance to a licensed gas fitter.
When to book
Book when the burner still will not light after the cap is seated, the burner is dry and clean and the range has power; when no burner clicks; when clicking will not stop; or when flames look wrong. Say which burners are affected and whether you hear the spark. All gas-side work at RepairWell is done by certified technicians, and anything upstream of the appliance connector goes to a licensed gas fitter. The diagnostic visit is $89, waived if you proceed. See stove and range repair and, for a separate gas cooktop, cooktop repair.
Questions
The burner clicks and clicks but never lights. What is that?
The spark is working but gas is not reaching it: usually a wet or dirty burner, a cap off centre, or an electrode out of position. Clean and dry it as described above. If it still fails, the burner valve or orifice may be blocked, which is a technician job.
A burner keeps clicking after I turn it off. Is that dangerous?
It is not a gas hazard on its own, but it means the spark switch or module is wet or failing. Unplug the range or switch off its breaker until it can be looked at.
Can I light the burner with a match while I wait?
Some manuals describe lighting a burner manually during a power cut. Follow yours exactly if it allows it, and never do it if you can smell gas. It is not a substitute for repair.
Who do I call if I smell gas?
Your gas utility, from outside the building: In Ottawa, Enbridge Gas at 1-877-542-2630, 24 hours. In Gatineau, Enbridge Gaz Québec (formerly Gazifère) at 1-866-771-8321, 24 hours. If anyone feels unwell or the smell is strong, call 911 first. Not an appliance repair company. We come after the utility has confirmed the supply is safe.
Related
Sources
- GE Appliances: Gas range and cooktop, common causes for slow ignition, no ignition or clicking on surface burners
- Whirlpool Product Help: Gas burners are clicking but not lighting
Reviewed 2026-09-24.
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