Oven · problem guide

Oven not heating

Short answer

The pattern matters here too.

Soon A cold oven is mostly an inconvenience, but an element that has arced or a gas oven that smells of gas without lighting should be left off and looked at promptly.

Oven relay board with high-temperature wiring harness
Real RepairWell job · An oven's relay board and high-temperature wiring.
Quick answer

What this symptom usually means

The pattern matters here too. If the burners on top work but the oven stays cold, the range has power and the fault is in the oven circuit: on an electric oven, most often the bake element (it may show a visible blister or break), less often the oven temperature sensor, a relay on the control board, or the door lock on a self-cleaning model stuck engaged after a clean cycle. GE's checklist starts with settings, the latch, knobs refitted in the wrong position after cleaning, and a visual look at the element.

On a gas oven, the bake ignitor is the usual suspect: it glows but never gets hot enough to open the gas valve, so the oven clicks or glows and stays cold, or lights late. The gas valve itself and the safety valve are technician-only. If the whole range is dead, including the clock, look at the breaker and the plug before anything else. Ovens that heat but not to temperature, or unevenly, are covered on separate pages.

Safety warningStop and call if: Gas smell that persists after the oven is turned off (leave the home and call the gas utility); Sparking, a flash or a loud pop from the element; Breaker trips when the oven is turned on.
Quick check · safe to try first

Checks you can do yourself

  1. Settings and clockMake sure the oven is set to Bake, not Timer or Delay Start, and that the clock is set; some controls will not start a cycle until it is. Cancel any active Sabbath mode.
  2. Door lockOn a self-cleaning oven, check that the door lock lever or indicator is released. If it stayed locked after a clean, let the oven cool completely and try the release again, or run a short Clean cycle and cancel it.
  3. KnobsIf knobs were removed for cleaning, confirm they are back on the correct shafts and oriented correctly.
  4. Breaker and plugFor an electric range, check the double breaker and reset it fully off then on. A range whose cooktop works but oven is cold can be on one leg of its 240 V supply. For a gas range, plug a lamp into the outlet to confirm power for the ignitor and control.
  5. Look at the element (electric)With the oven off and cool, look at the bake element for a blister, break or a spot that looks burned. Do not touch or test it; a damaged element is a technician replacement.
  6. Watch the ignitor (gas)Set Bake and watch through the door. The ignitor should glow and the burner light within about a minute. If it glows for minutes with no flame, or you smell gas, turn the oven off, ventilate and book. Do not keep trying.
  7. ResetTurn the breaker off for a minute and back on to clear a control lock-up. If a fault code shows, write it down.

Nothing above involves gas, wiring, refrigerant or removing panels.

Technician needed

What our technician checks

These need panels off, live electrical tests or a licensed trade, so they are left to the technician:

  • Removing or testing the element, sensor, ignitor or terminal block
  • Any work on the gas valve, gas line or connector
  • Opening the control panel
The visit
$89 + tax

Electric models $89 + tax; gas models, and Thermador, Miele, Viking, Wolf and Fisher & Paykel models, $129 + tax.

Waived when you proceed with the repair. You get the cause, the price and our repair-or-replace verdict in writing before any work.

Common parts involved

Repairs a technician may recommend

After inspection, not from the symptom alone.

Repair

Bake or broil element replacement

When the element is visibly damaged or tests open. A routine electric repair.

Repair

Oven ignitor replacement

When the ignitor glows but the gas oven does not light, or lights late. Done by licensed gas technicians.

Repair

Temperature sensor replacement

When the oven refuses to heat or gives a sensor fault code.

Repair

Control board or relay board replacement

When the element and sensor are sound but the oven never receives power to heat.

Repair

Door lock assembly or switch replacement

When the lock stays engaged or the control thinks the door is open.

Repair

Terminal block or power cord repair

When a connection at the back of the range has failed; a burned terminal is a common finding on older ranges.

Repair

Gas valve or safety valve replacement

Only by licensed gas technicians, and only when the ignitor and supply are confirmed good.

Brand-specific

Brands we see with this problem

Codes, parts and access differ by brand; the brand pages cover where the model label is and what to expect.

Repair or replace

Cost, and whether to fix it

What the repair costs depends on the part, the labour and whether a second visit is needed for an ordered part; the written finding gives the total before any work. Our guides on what drives repair costs, oven repair costs and repair versus replacement explain how to weigh it.

Who to call

RepairWell diagnoses and repairs this in homes and businesses across Ottawa and Gatineau; the diagnostic ($89 + tax for an electric model at home, $129 + tax for a gas model or a business) is waived when you proceed with the repair. If the oven is still under the manufacturer's warranty, contact the manufacturer first: warranty repairs usually have to go through their authorized network.

When to book

Book if the oven stays cold with the breaker reset, the controls set correctly and the door lock released, if the element shows damage, or if a gas oven's ignitor glows without lighting. Tell us whether the cooktop still works and any fault code; that tells us whether to bring an element, an ignitor or a sensor. The diagnostic visit is $89 + tax, waived if you proceed. Gas-side work is done by licensed gas technicians. Oven repair and stove and range repair describe the service; wall ovens are covered under wall oven repair.

Service areas

We handle this across Ottawa and Gatineau

All service areas

Related problems

Questions

Oven not heating: questions

The cooktop works but the oven is cold. What does that mean?

The range has power and the fault is on the oven side: on electric models most often the bake element, on gas models most often the ignitor. Either is confirmed by test, not by symptom.

The oven door locked itself and won't heat. What happened?

Self-cleaning ovens lock the door for the clean cycle and unlock when cool. If the lock has stuck, or the switch that reports it has failed, the control will refuse to bake. Let it cool fully and try again; if it stays locked, book.

Can I replace the bake element myself?

We do not give instructions for it. The element is on a 240 V circuit and connections behind the oven wall can be damaged or burned. It is a quick job for a technician.

My gas oven takes ages to light. Is that dangerous?

A slow-lighting oven usually has a weak ignitor. It should be looked at, and if you ever smell gas that does not clear quickly, turn the oven off, ventilate, and call the gas utility from outside if the smell persists.

From the repair blog

Repair stories and guides, with real photos from our work.

Book the diagnostic

Tell us this symptom and your postal code; it helps us bring the right parts.

Pick a preferred day and arrival window online; we confirm by email once a technician is assigned.

  • $89 + tax diagnostic$129 + tax for gas or commercial appliances and for Thermador, Miele, Viking, Wolf or Fisher & Paykel; waived when you proceed with the repair
  • Written finding on every visitCause, price and our repair-or-replace verdict
  • 90-day warrantyOn parts replaced; labour depends on the work done