Oven not heating
Soon A cold oven is mostly an inconvenience, but an element that has arced or a gas oven that smells of gas without lighting should be left off and looked at promptly.
What this symptom might mean
The pattern matters here too. If the burners on top work but the oven stays cold, the range has power and the fault is in the oven circuit: on an electric oven, most often the bake element (it may show a visible blister or break), less often the oven temperature sensor, a relay on the control board, or the door lock on a self-cleaning model stuck engaged after a clean cycle. GE's checklist starts with settings, the latch, knobs refitted in the wrong position after cleaning, and a visual look at the element.
On a gas oven, the bake ignitor is the usual suspect: it glows but never gets hot enough to open the gas valve, so the oven clicks or glows and stays cold, or lights late. The gas valve itself and the safety valve are technician-only. If the whole range is dead, including the clock, look at the breaker and the plug before anything else. Ovens that heat but not to temperature, or unevenly, are covered on separate pages.
Safe checks you can do first
- Settings and clock. Make sure the oven is set to Bake, not Timer or Delay Start, and that the clock is set; some controls will not start a cycle until it is. Cancel any active Sabbath mode.
- Door lock. On a self-cleaning oven, check that the door lock lever or indicator is released. If it stayed locked after a clean, let the oven cool completely and try the release again, or run a short Clean cycle and cancel it.
- Knobs. If knobs were removed for cleaning, confirm they are back on the correct shafts and oriented correctly.
- Breaker and plug. For an electric range, check the double breaker and reset it fully off then on. A range whose cooktop works but oven is cold can be on one leg of its 240 V supply. For a gas range, plug a lamp into the outlet to confirm power for the ignitor and control.
- Look at the element (electric). With the oven off and cool, look at the bake element for a blister, break or a spot that looks burned. Do not touch or test it; a damaged element is a technician replacement.
- Watch the ignitor (gas). Set Bake and watch through the door. The ignitor should glow and the burner light within about a minute. If it glows for minutes with no flame, or you smell gas, turn the oven off, ventilate and book. Do not keep trying.
- Reset. Turn the breaker off for a minute and back on to clear a control lock-up. If a fault code shows, write it down.
Nothing above involves gas, wiring, refrigerant or removing panels. Those are technician-only: Removing or testing the element, sensor, ignitor or terminal block; Any work on the gas valve, gas line or connector; Opening the control panel.
Repairs a technician may recommend
After inspection, not from the symptom alone.
- Bake or broil element replacement. When the element is visibly damaged or tests open. A routine electric repair.
- Oven ignitor replacement. When the ignitor glows but the gas oven does not light, or lights late. Done by our certified technicians.
- Temperature sensor replacement. When the oven refuses to heat or gives a sensor fault code.
- Control board or relay board replacement. When the element and sensor are sound but the oven never receives power to heat.
- Door lock assembly or switch replacement. When the lock stays engaged or the control thinks the door is open.
- Terminal block or power cord repair. When a connection at the back of the range has failed; a burned terminal is a common finding on older ranges.
- Gas valve or safety valve replacement. Only by a certified technician, and only when the ignitor and supply are confirmed good.
When to book
Book if the oven stays cold with the breaker reset, the controls set correctly and the door lock released, if the element shows damage, or if a gas oven's ignitor glows without lighting. Tell us whether the cooktop still works and any fault code; that tells us whether to bring an element, an ignitor or a sensor. The diagnostic visit is $89, waived if you proceed. Gas-side work is done only by our certified technicians. Oven repair and stove and range repair describe the service; wall ovens are covered under wall oven repair.
Questions
The cooktop works but the oven is cold. What does that mean?
The range has power and the fault is on the oven side: on electric models most often the bake element, on gas models most often the ignitor. Either is confirmed by test, not by symptom.
The oven door locked itself and won't heat. What happened?
Self-cleaning ovens lock the door for the clean cycle and unlock when cool. If the lock has stuck, or the switch that reports it has failed, the control will refuse to bake. Let it cool fully and try again; if it stays locked, book.
Can I replace the bake element myself?
We do not give instructions for it. The element is on a 240 V circuit and connections behind the oven wall can be damaged or burned. It is a quick job for a technician.
My gas oven takes ages to light. Is that dangerous?
A slow-lighting oven usually has a weak ignitor. It should be looked at, and if you ever smell gas that does not clear quickly, turn the oven off, ventilate, and call the gas utility from outside if the smell persists.
Related
Sources
Reviewed 2026-09-24.
Book the diagnostic
Tell us this symptom and your postal code; it helps us bring the right parts.
Online booking is a request. We confirm the appointment by text or phone within 1 business hour.