Washer leaking
Urgent A washer moves 40 to 80 litres per load, so a leak that seems small can flood a laundry closet, a finished basement or the unit below within a cycle or two.
What this symptom might mean
Start by working out when and where the water appears. Water at the back during fill usually means the inlet hoses: a loose coupling, a worn rubber washer, a cracked hose or a clogged inlet screen that lets water spray back. Water at the back during drain points at the drain hose, either split, loose at the standpipe, or backing up because the household drain is slow. Water at the front of a front loader during wash is commonly the door gasket, which can be torn, folded, or holding hair and grit that breaks the seal; LG also names the detergent drawer, which overflows when it's clogged, and the pump filter cap when it isn't tightened after cleaning. Foam pouring from the dispenser or the air vent is over-sudsing from too much or the wrong detergent. Water from underneath during wash or spin is the one that most often needs a part: the drain pump, an internal hose, or the tub seal and bearing.
Maytag's guide is candid that most leaks beyond hoses and gaskets need professional repair, and that a washer that drips while it is switched off suggests the inlet valve isn't closing. Overloading also causes leaks by pushing water past the door seal or over the top of the tub on top loaders.
Safe checks you can do first
- Turn off the taps and contain the water. Close both water taps behind the washer. Mop up, and put towels where the water collects so you can see whether it returns. If water has reached an outlet or a power bar, unplug the washer at the plug and keep clear.
- Watch a rinse-and-spin. With towels down, run a short rinse-and-spin and watch the door, the dispenser drawer, the pump filter door and the back. LG suggests this to pinpoint the source. Stop the cycle as soon as you see where it comes from.
- Inlet hoses. Check the couplings at the tap and at the washer for drips, and hand-tighten them. Look along the hoses for bulges or cracks. If they are original rubber hoses more than a few years old, replacement is cheap insurance.
- Drain hose and standpipe. Make sure the drain hose is clipped into the standpipe or laundry tub, isn't split, and isn't pushed so far in that it seals. If water rises up the standpipe during drain, the house drain is slow and a plumber is the call.
- Door gasket and dispenser. On front loaders, fold back the gasket and clear hair, grit and small objects; check for tears. Wipe the door glass. Pull the detergent drawer and clean it and its housing, since a caked drawer overflows.
- Detergent and load size. Use HE detergent in HE machines, measure it, and don't pack the drum. Oversudsing and overloading both push water past seals that are otherwise fine.
Nothing above involves gas, wiring, refrigerant or removing panels. Those are technician-only: Opening the cabinet to reach internal hoses, the pump or the tub; Replacing the inlet valve; Tub seal and bearing work; Repairing the household drain, taps or supply pipes (a plumber).
Repairs a technician may recommend
After inspection, not from the symptom alone.
- Inlet hose or inlet valve replacement. When the hoses are cracked or the valve weeps or won't close. Hoses are inexpensive; the valve is a moderate part.
- Door gasket (boot) replacement. When the front-loader seal is torn, holed or hardened. A common repair on front loaders.
- Drain pump or pump housing replacement. When the pump body or its seal leaks during drain.
- Internal hose or clamp replacement. When a hose inside the cabinet has split or a clamp has loosened.
- Tub seal and bearing replacement. When water leaks from the tub shaft during spin, often with a rumble. A major repair; on an older machine the finding will compare it with replacement.
- Dispenser housing or air-vent repair. When the drawer housing is cracked or the vent is discharging foam.
When to book
Book right away if the leak is from underneath, if it continues with the taps closed, or if it's anywhere that can damage the building below. Book after a rinse-and-spin test if you've tightened and inspected the hoses, cleaned the gasket and drawer, and the leak returns. Tell us where the water appears and at what point in the cycle (fill, wash, drain, spin); it usually lets us bring the right part. Keep the taps closed until we arrive. The visit is $89 with a written finding, waived if you proceed with the repair. Washing machine repair covers what the diagnosis includes.
Questions
Why does my front loader leak at the door?
Most often the gasket is holding hair, grit or a small object, is folded, or has a tear. Cleaning and checking it is safe to do yourself; replacing it is a technician job on most models.
The washer leaks only during the spin. What is that?
A leak that appears at high speed is often the tub seal or bearing, sometimes the drain pump under pressure. Both need the cabinet opened. Stop using the machine and book.
Should I replace the rubber inlet hoses?
If they are more than a few years old or show bulges or cracks, yes; braided stainless hoses are a modest cost and a burst rubber hose can flood a house. We can replace them during the visit if you ask.
Is a leak covered by my home insurance?
That depends on your policy; sudden failures are more often covered than slow leaks. We can't advise on coverage, but a written finding from the visit is useful if you need to make a claim.
Related
Sources
Reviewed 2026-09-24.
Book the diagnostic
Tell us this symptom and your postal code; it helps us bring the right parts.
Online booking is a request. We confirm the appointment by text or phone within 1 business hour.