Ottawa & Gatineau · Dishwasher

Dishwasher repair

A dishwasher does four things: fill, wash, drain and dry. When one of them stops, the cause is usually somewhere in a short list, and the most common item on that list is debris in the filter or pump. Bosch says as much on its own support pages. RepairWell checks that first, then works through the valve, pumps, heater and controls until the finding is certain, and writes it down before quoting.

We repair built-in, panel-ready and compact dishwashers in Ottawa and Gatineau kitchens, from a builder-grade unit in a rental to a fully integrated European model that has to come out of the cabinet to be worked on. Where the cause is a plumbing problem on the house side, we tell you rather than replace a part that isn't broken.

Online booking is a request; we confirm a window by text or phone within 1 business hour.

Types and configurations we service

  • Standard built-in (24-inch) — The bulk of our dishwasher work; drain pumps, inlet valves, door latches and wash pumps.
  • Panel-ready and fully integrated — Cabinet panel and hidden controls; removal for service takes longer and the finding accounts for it.
  • Compact 18-inch and drawer dishwashers — Condo and small-kitchen units, plus Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer models; parts are model-specific.
  • Portable and countertop — Repairable for pumps and valves; often not worth a visit for control faults, and we'll say so on the phone.
  • Commercial under-counter — High-temperature and chemical-sanitizing machines in restaurants and offices; see commercial repair.

Symptoms we're called for

Possible causes

These are possibilities, not a diagnosis; the technician confirms the cause on site.

  • Food debris, glass or a fruit label caught in the filter or the drain pump, which Bosch calls the most common reason a dishwasher stops draining
  • A drain hose kinked under the sink, or a new garburator installed without its knockout plug removed
  • A worn or torn door gasket, a cracked spray arm, or a loose hose clamp inside the base
  • A weak inlet valve or a clogged inlet screen, so the machine never fills enough to wash properly
  • A failed heater or thermistor, which affects both cleaning and drying
  • A door latch or switch that no longer tells the control the door is closed
  • A worn wash pump motor or bearing, heard as grinding during the wash
  • Hard water scale on the spray arms and heater, common where households are on well water outside the municipal systems

Repairs a technician may recommend

  • Clear the filter, sump and drain pump and replace the pump if the impeller is damaged
  • Replace the drain hose or reroute it with the correct high loop
  • Replace the door gasket, lower door seal or a leaking hose or clamp in the base
  • Replace the water inlet valve or float switch
  • Replace the heating element, thermistor or the flow-through heater on European models
  • Replace the door latch, door switch or door springs and cables
  • Replace the wash pump and motor assembly
  • Replace the control board or user interface after confirming the fault

Typical components involved: filter, sump and drain pump, wash pump and motor, water inlet valve and float, heating element or flow-through heater, door gasket, latch and springs, spray arms and water diverter, control board and touch panel, drain hose and high loop or air gap.

Capability note. Hard-wired dishwashers: Our technician disconnects and reconnects an existing hard-wired appliance at the junction box, like for like, on the same existing circuit. A new circuit, panel work or rewiring needs a licensed electrician, and the written finding will say so.

Safe checks before you book

  • Remove and clean the filter (twist-out on most models) and check the sump for glass, bones or a fruit label
  • Check under the sink: the drain hose should rise in a high loop and not be kinked; if a garburator was fitted recently, make sure its knockout was removed
  • Confirm the hot-water tap under the sink is open and the dishwasher is receiving water
  • Run a cycle with a dishwasher cleaner and check the spray-arm holes for scale or debris
  • Make sure the door latches firmly; a door that needs a shove may not be closing the switch
  • Check the breaker and, on plug-in models, the outlet under the sink with a lamp

Stop using it if

  • Water on the floor near the base or leaking into the cabinet under the sink: turn off the tap and stop the cycle
  • A burning smell or a scorched patch on the door panel
  • The dishwasher trips a breaker or GFCI repeatedly
  • Water continues to enter with the machine off, which can flood the kitchen: shut the supply tap

Never work on gas lines, wiring, refrigerant or microwave components yourself.

What to expect during diagnosis and repair

The technician runs the dishwasher and watches each stage: fill level, spray pressure, drain and heat. The kick plate comes off to check the base for water and the pumps for noise; the filter and sump are opened; the inlet valve, heater and door switch are metered where needed. If there is an error code stored in the control, it is read and used, not taken as the diagnosis on its own. You get the written finding with the total before any part is fitted. Drain pumps, inlet valves, gaskets and latches are often on the truck; wash pump assemblies and control boards are ordered by model. Fully integrated models take longer because the panel and mounting brackets have to come off.

Repair or replace?

Filters, drain pumps, inlet valves, gaskets, latches and heaters are all modest repairs and worth doing on nearly any dishwasher that is otherwise sound. The harder decisions are a wash pump and motor assembly on a builder-grade unit, a control board on a model where the board is expensive, or a rusted rack and a leaking tub together on an older machine. Panel-ready and integrated dishwashers tilt toward repair because a replacement means matching the cabinet panel and the opening. The finding shows the repair total alongside what you know about the dishwasher's age, and we say which way we'd go.

Our repair-versus-replacement method →

Pricing factors

The diagnostic visit is $89, waived when you go ahead with the repair, and the quote is given on the spot. What moves the repair price:

  • Clearing a blockage versus replacing the drain or wash pump
  • Integrated and panel-ready units take more time to remove and refit
  • Whether the drain hose, high loop or garburator connection needs correcting
  • Model-specific European parts that must be ordered
  • Repairs that need the dishwasher pulled out and levelled again afterwards
  • Second appliance on the same visit: If a second appliance is diagnosed on the same visit, it is $45 instead of the full $89.

How the fee works → · Preparing for the visit →

Brands we service for dishwashers

Brand list subject to confirmation: most major brands, including LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, Bosch, GE, Maytag, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Electrolux, Kenmore, Amana, Inglis, Miele, Jenn-Air, Fisher & Paykel, Haier and Danby. Independent service; no manufacturer affiliation implied.

Dishwasher questions

Water sits in the bottom after every cycle. Is the pump dead?

Not necessarily. Debris in the filter or pump, a kinked hose, a garburator knockout or a blocked sink drain all cause the same thing. Bosch's own advice is to clean the filter and pump cover first. If that doesn't fix it, the diagnostic tells you what will.

Why are my dishes wet at the end of the cycle?

Plastics hold water and many European dishwashers dry by condensation rather than a fan, so some moisture is normal. A rinse-aid dispenser that is empty or broken, a failed heater, or a cycle that ends early are the usual faults.

My dishwasher shows an error code. Can you tell me what it means?

Codes vary by brand and are a clue, not a diagnosis. See appliance error-code guides, then book if the code comes back after a reset.

Do you install dishwashers?

See dishwasher installation for scope and what must be done by a licensed plumber or electrician.

Is a Bosch or Miele worth repairing at ten years?

Often yes, because these machines are built to be serviced and parts are available. A pump or heater is a reasonable repair; a leaking tub is usually not. The finding gives you both numbers.

Can hard water damage the dishwasher?

Scale can clog spray arms and coat the heater. Ottawa's municipal water is treated; some rural households on wells have harder water. A descaling cycle helps; persistent white film may also be a rinse-aid or detergent issue rather than a fault.

Sources

Reviewed 2026-09-24.

Book a dishwasher diagnostic

Tell us the symptom and your postal code. You'll get a confirmed window, then a written finding before any repair.

Online booking is a request. We confirm the appointment by text or phone within 1 business hour.