Cooktop element not working
Start by noticing what is dead.
Soon A dead element is an inconvenience, but an element that sparked, a glass top that cracked, or a burner that stays on at full heat regardless of the knob should be switched off at the breaker.
What this symptom usually means
Start by noticing what is dead. If everything on the cooktop is out but the oven (on a range) or the clock works, the cooktop may be on one leg of its 240 V supply, the control lock may be on, or a main relay or the cooktop's own power board may have failed. GE's checklist for that case is the breaker, the plug seated firmly, and, if all burners are out with the oven fine, a service call.
If one element is dead, the possibilities depend on the type. On a coil cooktop, the plug-in coil or its receptacle may have burned; GE suggests swapping the coil into a working receptacle of the same size to see whether the coil or the socket is at fault. On a radiant glass top, the element itself, the infinite switch behind the knob, or the wiring to it. On induction, the cooktop refuses to heat if the pan is not magnetic or is too small, and shows a symbol rather than a fault. Whirlpool also notes normal behaviour that gets mistaken for faults: radiant elements cycle on and off even at high, warm zones do not glow, and dual elements light only the inner ring on some settings.
Checks you can do yourself
- What is outNote whether one element, several, or the whole top is dead, and whether the oven or clock works. This is the first thing we will ask.
- Breaker and plugReset the double breaker fully off then on. On a slide-in range, check the plug is seated; the outlet is often reachable by pulling out the storage drawer.
- Control lockTouch-control cooktops have a lock (a padlock symbol) that disables the burners. Hold it for three seconds. Some also have a demo mode that lights the display but disables heating.
- Cookware (induction)A magnet should stick firmly to the pan's base, and the pan should cover most of the ring. Warped or small pans may not be detected. Try a different pan before assuming a fault.
- Cool-downIf an element quit mid-use, remove the pan and wait 30 minutes; some cooktops shut a zone down on overheating and reset when cool.
- Coil cooktopsWith the cooktop off and cool, lift the coil out and look at the terminals and the receptacle for burning or pitting. Swapping a same-size coil into the dead receptacle tells you whether it is the coil or the socket. Do not use a coil with burned terminals.
- Glass topLook for a crack in the glass. A cracked top should not be used; liquid can reach the electrics below.
Nothing above involves gas, wiring, refrigerant or removing panels.
What our technician checks
These need panels off, live electrical tests or a licensed trade, so they are left to the technician:
- Lifting the glass top or opening the cabinet to reach elements, switches or boards
- Any electrical test on a 240 V cooktop
- Replacing the terminal block or power cord
Electric models $89 + tax; gas models, and Thermador, Miele, Viking, Wolf and Fisher & Paykel models, $129 + tax.
Waived when you proceed with the repair. You get the cause, the price and our repair-or-replace verdict in writing before any work.
Repairs a technician may recommend
After inspection, not from the symptom alone.
Radiant or coil element replacement
When the element tests open or shows damage. Common and routine.
Coil receptacle replacement
When the socket is burned or loose; usually done with the coil.
Infinite switch or control knob switch replacement
When one element is dead or stuck on and the element tests fine.
Induction generator or power board replacement
When one zone or a pair of zones is dead on an induction top; the finding weighs this against the unit's age.
Touch-control user interface replacement
When the panel does not respond or reports a lock it will not release.
Terminal block, wiring or relay repair
When connections behind the cooktop have overheated; a burned terminal is a common finding.
Glass top replacement
When the glass is cracked; the finding says whether it is worth it against replacement.
Brands we see with this problem
Codes, parts and access differ by brand; the brand pages cover where the model label is and what to expect.
Cost, and whether to fix it
What the repair costs depends on the part, the labour and whether a second visit is needed for an ordered part; the written finding gives the total before any work. Our guides on what drives repair costs, cooktop repair costs and repair versus replacement explain how to weigh it.
Who to call
RepairWell diagnoses and repairs this in homes and businesses across Ottawa and Gatineau; the diagnostic ($89 + tax for an electric model at home, $129 + tax for a gas model or a business) is waived when you proceed with the repair. If the cooktop is still under the manufacturer's warranty, contact the manufacturer first: warranty repairs usually have to go through their authorized network.
When to book
Book when an element stays dead after the breaker reset and lock check, when an element will not turn off, when the glass is cracked, or when the whole top is out with the oven working. Tell us the cooktop type (coil, radiant glass, induction), which zones are affected and any symbol on the display. The diagnostic visit is $89 + tax, waived when you proceed with the repair. Induction units are covered under induction cooktop repair; for a range's cooktop see stove and range repair, and for a separate unit cooktop repair.
We handle this across Ottawa and Gatineau
Related problems
Cooktop element not working: questions
My radiant element turns off and on even on High. Is it broken?
No. Whirlpool and others describe this as normal: radiant elements cycle to protect the glass and hold temperature. An element that never glows at all is a different matter.
Only the inner ring of my dual element lights. Why?
Many dual and triple elements light the outer ring only when the larger size is selected. Check the control; if the outer ring never comes on with the large setting, book.
My induction cooktop shows a pan symbol and won't heat.
It is not detecting a suitable pan. The base must be magnetic (a fridge magnet should grip it) and cover most of the zone. If a known-good pan still is not detected on one zone, that zone may have a fault.
Can I replace a coil element myself?
Plug-in coils are designed to lift out for cleaning and a same-size replacement is a like-for-like swap on many models. If the receptacle is burned, or the cooktop is a glass top, leave it to a technician.
Sources
- GE Appliances: Electric range surface burners not heating or working
- Whirlpool Product Help: Cooktop not working, electric cooktop
Sources checked 2026-09-24.
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Tell us this symptom and your postal code; it helps us bring the right parts.
Pick a preferred day and arrival window online; we confirm by email once a technician is assigned.
- $89 + tax diagnostic$129 + tax for gas or commercial appliances and for Thermador, Miele, Viking, Wolf or Fisher & Paykel; waived when you proceed with the repair
- Written finding on every visitCause, price and our repair-or-replace verdict
- 90-day warrantyOn parts replaced; labour depends on the work done