Induction cooktop repair
An induction cooktop has no heating element under the glass. Each zone is a copper coil driven by a power board that creates a magnetic field, and the pan heats itself. That is why induction faults look different from a radiant cooktop's: a zone that won't switch on may be refusing a pan it can't sense, a flashing power level may be the control asking for cookware, and a genuinely dead zone points to the generator board rather than an element. It is also why an induction cooktop has its own page.
RepairWell repairs induction cooktops and the cooktop section of induction ranges in Ottawa and Gatineau. For glass, control-lock and hard-wired questions shared with other cooktops, see cooktop repair.
Online booking is a request; we confirm a window by text or phone within 1 business hour.
Types and configurations we service
- Drop-in induction cooktops (30 and 36 inch) — Four or five zones on one or two generator boards; a board fault often takes out a pair of zones.
- Induction ranges (cooktop section) — Same coils and boards above an electric oven; the oven is covered under oven repair.
- Flex and bridge-zone cooktops — Zones that link for griddles; pan-detection and zone-linking faults are model-specific.
- Portable single-zone induction hobs — Rarely worth a visit; we say so on the phone.
Symptoms we're called for
- Zone won't turn on with a pan on it
- Power level flashes and the zone shuts off
- One pair of zones dead, the others fine
- Buzzing or humming from the pan
- Zone heats weakly or drops power at high settings
- Error code on the display
- Fan under the cooktop runs loudly or not at all
Possible causes
These are possibilities, not a diagnosis; the technician confirms the cause on site.
- Cookware that isn't magnetic, too small for the zone, or not centred; GE lists all three as reasons a zone won't turn on and suggests the magnet test
- A pan removed for more than about 30 seconds, after which GE notes the zone shuts itself off
- A failed generator or power board, which usually affects the zones it drives
- A pan-detection or coil sensor fault on one zone
- An overheated board because the cooling fan under the glass has failed or its intake is blocked in the cabinet
- A touch-control board or a control lock
- Low or missing supply voltage; GE notes 208 V supplies reduce performance, and a lost leg of 240 V leaves the display on with no heat
- Boil-over that has reached the electronics under the glass
Repairs a technician may recommend
- Replace the generator or power board for the affected zones
- Replace an induction coil or its temperature sensor
- Replace the cooling fan and clear the air path in the cabinet
- Replace the touch-control board or user interface
- Replace the filter board or relay board where the fault is in the supply side
- Replace the glass top where it is cracked, when the cost is justified
- Correct wiring at the terminal block; junction-box work: Our technician disconnects and reconnects an existing hard-wired appliance at the junction box, like for like, on the same existing circuit. A new circuit, panel work or rewiring needs a licensed electrician, and the written finding will say so.
Typical components involved: induction coils and coil sensors, generator (power) boards, filter and relay boards, cooling fans, touch-control board and display, glass top and gasket, terminal block and junction-box connection.
Safe checks before you book
- Hold a fridge magnet to the pan base; if it doesn't stick firmly, the pan won't work on induction (GE's own test)
- Centre a pan that is at least the minimum size for the zone, flat on the glass, and try again
- Check for a control-lock symbol and clear it as the manual describes
- Wipe the glass and touch panel dry; water on the controls can cause them to ignore touches or shut off
- Reset the breaker fully off and on; most induction cooktops are hard-wired
- Listen for the cooling fan under the cooktop on a high setting; silence with a hot cooktop suggests the fan
Stop using it if
- A cracked glass top, especially with liquid under it, because the electronics sit right beneath
- A burning smell or smoke from the cabinet under the cooktop
- A zone that keeps heating after being switched off
- Repeated breaker trips when the cooktop is switched on
Never work on gas lines, wiring, refrigerant or microwave components yourself.
What to expect during diagnosis and repair
The technician starts with the pan and the controls, because a surprising share of induction calls end there. Then each zone is tested with known-good cookware and the error codes are read. Board faults are confirmed by testing from below through the cabinet or by lifting the cooktop from the counter, which on a large unit is a two-person job. Because the boards are model-specific and expensive, nothing is ordered until the fault is certain. You get a written finding with the total before the repair. Fans and coils are sometimes on the truck; generator boards and control boards are ordered by model number, and the cooktop is resealed to the counter after the repair.
Repair or replace?
Induction cooktops are worth repairing when the fault is a fan, a coil, a sensor or the control, because those are moderate parts on an appliance that is expensive to replace. A generator board is the repair that needs a decision: on a mid-range cooktop it can be a significant share of a new one, and if the glass is also cracked the answer usually tips to replacement. On premium units and on induction ranges the board is more often worth it. The finding shows the repair total beside that comparison.
Our repair-versus-replacement method →
Pricing factors
The diagnostic visit is $89, waived when you go ahead with the repair, and the quote is given on the spot. What moves the repair price:
- Fan, coil or sensor versus generator board or control board
- Whether the cooktop must be lifted from the counter and resealed
- Two-zone board faults that require one board versus a full set
- Hard-wired connection: Our technician disconnects and reconnects an existing hard-wired appliance at the junction box, like for like, on the same existing circuit. A new circuit, panel work or rewiring needs a licensed electrician, and the written finding will say so.
- Second appliance on the same visit: If a second appliance is diagnosed on the same visit, it is $45 instead of the full $89.
Brands we service for induction cooktops
Brand list subject to confirmation: most major brands, including LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, Bosch, GE, Maytag, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Electrolux, Kenmore, Amana, Inglis, Miele, Jenn-Air, Fisher & Paykel, Haier and Danby. Independent service; no manufacturer affiliation implied.
Induction cooktop questions
Why does induction get its own page?
Because the faults are electronic rather than resistive. A zone that won't start is often a pan-detection issue, and a dead zone points to a generator board, not an element. The diagnosis and parts are different from a radiant cooktop.
My cooktop keeps flashing the power level and shutting off. Is it broken?
Often it is asking for a pan it can detect: magnetic, large enough, and centred. Try the magnet test. If a known-good pan does the same on that zone, book a diagnostic.
Two zones died at the same time. Coincidence?
Probably not. Pairs of zones usually share a generator board, so a board fault takes out both. It is one of the clearer findings on an induction cooktop.
Is the buzzing at high power normal?
A light hum or buzz from the pan at high settings is common with induction, especially with lighter or multi-layer pans. A loud rattle, or a buzz from under the glass rather than the pan, is worth a visit.
Do you install induction cooktops?
Most need a dedicated 240 V circuit connected by a licensed electrician; see range, cooktop and wall-oven installation.
Related guides and pages
Service areas: Ottawa (central), Nepean, Kanata, Stittsville, Barrhaven, Orléans, Gloucester, Manotick and Riverside South, Gatineau (secteur Gatineau), Hull, Aylmer, Buckingham and Masson-Angers, Chelsea and Cantley.
Sources
Reviewed 2026-09-24.
Book a induction cooktop diagnostic
Tell us the symptom and your postal code. You'll get a confirmed window, then a written finding before any repair.
Online booking is a request. We confirm the appointment by text or phone within 1 business hour.