Dryer drum not turning

What this symptom might mean

When the dryer starts, the motor hums or the heat comes on, but the drum stays still, the usual suspect is the drive belt. A belt that has snapped leaves the drum turning freely by hand with no resistance. A belt that is stretched or riding off the idler pulley may slip under a heavy wet load and grip on a light one. GE's guidance is exactly that test: if the drum spins freely by hand, the belt has probably broken or come loose.

There are other possibilities. If nothing hums at all, the problem may be the door switch, the start switch, the thermal fuse or the motor itself rather than the belt. An overloaded drum on a stacked or compact model can also stall a motor that is otherwise sound, and a drum roller or bearing that has seized will hold the drum against the belt's pull, often with a squeal first. The technician confirms which by removing the front or top panel; the checks below stay outside the cabinet.

Safe checks you can do first

1. Reduce the load. Take out half the load, especially heavy wet towels or jeans, close the door and restart. If the drum turns with a lighter load, the belt or idler is likely worn and the machine still needs a look.
2. Door and start. Make sure the door clicks fully shut and hold the start button for a couple of seconds. On many models a paused cycle needs Start pressed again after the door has been opened.
3. Turn the drum by hand. With the dryer off, turn the drum. If it spins with almost no resistance and keeps coasting, the belt is probably broken. If it is stiff or grinds, a roller or bearing may have seized. Either way, stop here.
4. Listen. Start a cycle and listen. A hum with no rotation is different from silence. Note which it is; it helps the technician.
5. Power. Check the breaker and, on electric models, that both halves of the double breaker are on. Plug a lamp into a gas dryer's outlet to confirm it is live.
6. Reset. Unplug for one minute and try again. This clears a stalled control on some electronic models.

Nothing above involves gas, wiring, refrigerant or removing panels. Those are technician-only: Removing the front panel or drum to reach the belt, idler and rollers; Testing the motor, start switch or thermal fuse; Anything on the gas valve or burner of a gas dryer.

Repairs a technician may recommend

After inspection, not from the symptom alone.

• Drive belt replacement. When the drum spins freely by hand. A routine repair; the technician also checks the idler and rollers while the belt is off.
• Idler pulley or tensioner replacement. When the belt is intact but slipping or squealing under load.
• Drum roller, glide or bearing replacement. When the drum is stiff to turn or grinds. Usually replaced as a set.
• Motor replacement. When the motor hums but does not start, or trips its overload. The finding weighs this against the dryer's age.
• Door switch, start switch or thermal fuse replacement. When the dryer is completely silent and the outlet is live.

When to book

Book once you have tried a lighter load and confirmed the door is latched and the outlet is live. Tell us what you heard (hum, click, nothing) and whether the drum turns freely by hand; that usually tells us whether to bring a belt kit or plan for a motor. The diagnostic is $89 and is waived if you go ahead with the repair. If the dryer is stacked or in a closet, let us know so we can allow for pulling it out. See dryer repair for what the visit includes.

Questions

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