Electric stove burner not heating
On a freestanding electric range, start by working out whether one burner is dead or all of them.
Soon One dead burner is mostly an inconvenience, but scorch marks, sparks at a coil socket or a burner that won't turn off are electrical faults to stop using right away.
What this symptom usually means
On a freestanding electric range, start by working out whether one burner is dead or all of them. If all the surface burners and the oven are dead, the range may have lost power: Whirlpool says to check the breakers or fuses first, and on a 240-volt range one half of a double breaker can trip on its own. If only one burner is out, the type matters. A coil element plugs into a receptacle under the cooktop. Whirlpool says it must be fully inserted to work, and on many models the knob has to be pushed in before it turns. Frigidaire suggests swapping the coil with a working one of the same size: if the coil heats in the other socket, the receptacle, switch or wiring for the first position is at fault; if it stays cold, the coil is.
Newer coil elements behave differently from older ones. Whirlpool says coil elements made since June 2018 carry a temperature limiter: the inner coil cycles on and off and glows red when it's on, while the outer coil stays on but may look dimmer. That is normal. Frigidaire says the sensor in the centre of these coils should spring back up when pressed. GE says all electric surface burners, coil and radiant, cycle on and off to hold a setting, even on High, and more often with pans that aren't flat or are the wrong size. On a radiant glass-top range, Frigidaire suggests a 30-second power reset and says several dead burners can point to a voltage or wiring problem. Beyond that, the likely parts are the element, the burner's control switch, the receptacle and its wiring, or on electronic ranges a relay on the control board. Built-in cooktops and induction are covered in cooktop element not working.
Checks you can do yourself
- Check the breakersIf several burners and the oven are out, check the range's double breaker: switch it fully off and back on. Whirlpool lists the breaker or fuse first. If it trips again, stop and call.
- Check the knob and settingsWhirlpool says some knobs must be pushed in before turning. On ranges with dual or triple elements, check the selector; on touch-control models, check that the cooktop isn't locked.
- Reseat the coilWith all burners off and cool, lift the coil slightly, pull it straight out of the receptacle, look at the terminals for pitting or burn marks, and push it back in fully. Whirlpool says a coil that isn't inserted properly won't work. Make sure the drip bowl sits flat.
- Do the swap testFrigidaire suggests swapping the dead coil with a working one of the same size. If the coil heats in the other position, the problem is the receptacle, switch or wiring; if it doesn't, the coil has failed.
- Press the centre sensorOn newer coils, Frigidaire says the sensor in the middle should spring back up when pressed. If it's stuck down or damaged, note it.
- Use a flat, correctly sized panGE says burners cycle more with pans that aren't flat or are the wrong size. Whirlpool suggests a pan that overhangs the element by no more than about 13 mm (½ in), with a lid when boiling water.
- Reset a glass-top rangeFrigidaire suggests turning off the power for 30 seconds, then back on, and noting whether one or several burners are affected.
Nothing above involves gas, wiring, refrigerant or removing panels.
What you notice, and what it can point to
Listed in no particular order. They help you describe the problem; only an inspection confirms the fault.
One coil dead, works in another socket
Could point to: Receptacle, switch or wiring for that position
Next step: Book; don't keep using the socket
One coil dead in every socket
Could point to: Failed coil element
Next step: Replace the coil with the right part for the model
New coil glows, goes dark, glows again
Could point to: Normal cycling of a 2018-or-later limited coil
Next step: No repair needed; use a flat pan
All burners and oven dead
Could point to: Breaker, fuse or supply fault
Next step: Check the double breaker; call if it trips again
Glass-top burner cuts out on High
Could point to: Limiter protecting the glass, often with a warped pan
Next step: Try a flat pan; book if it continues
Scorch marks or sparks at the socket
Could point to: Burned receptacle and terminals
Next step: Stop using that burner and book
How it differs by design
- Plug-in coil elements: the coil slides into a receptacle and sits in a drip bowl. A coil that isn't pushed fully home, or a receptacle with burned terminals, is a common cause of one dead burner.
- Coils with a centre sensor (since 2018): Whirlpool says the inner coil cycles and the outer coil stays on. Frigidaire says the centre sensor should spring back up; a pan that doesn't sit flat on it can make the burner cycle more.
- Radiant glass-top ranges: the element is under the glass and has a limiter that switches it off when the glass gets too hot. GE says cycling on High is normal.
- Electronic touch controls: on ranges with touch pads, each element is usually switched by a relay on a board, and a control lock can disable the cooktop.
What our technician checks
These need panels off, live electrical tests or a licensed trade, so they are left to the technician:
- Lifting the cooktop to reach receptacles, switches and wiring
- Any live-voltage test at a switch, receptacle or terminal block
- Removing a glass cooktop or radiant element
- Work on the range's supply cord, outlet or breaker (an electrician)
Waived when you go ahead with the repair. You get the cause, the price and our repair-or-replace verdict in writing before any work.
Repairs a technician may recommend
After inspection, not from the symptom alone.
Coil element replacement
When the swap test shows the coil itself is dead, or it's split, blistered or bent. The model number identifies the right coil.
Receptacle and wiring repair
When the coil works elsewhere but not in its own socket, or the receptacle is burned. A burned receptacle often damages the coil's terminals too, so both may be replaced together.
Infinite switch replacement
When the burner stays off, or only works on some settings, with a good coil and receptacle.
Radiant element or limiter replacement
When a glass-top element doesn't glow at all, or cuts out almost immediately with a flat pan.
Control board or relay diagnosis
On electronic ranges, when one or more burners don't respond to the touch controls.
Terminal block or supply check
When several burners are dead or weak. Faults in the 240-volt supply circuit itself are work for an electrician.
Cost, and whether to fix it
What the repair costs depends on the part, the labour and whether a second visit is needed for an ordered part; the written finding gives the total before any work. Our guides on what drives repair costs, stove & range repair costs and repair versus replacement explain how to weigh it.
When to book
Book if a coil still won't heat after reseating and the swap test, if the swap test points to the receptacle, or if a radiant burner stays dark after a power reset. Tell us the type of range (coil or glass-top), which burner, what the swap test showed, and whether you see any burn marks. The visit is $89 with a written finding, waived if you go ahead with the repair. Landlords with several units can see property managers. Range repair explains what the diagnosis covers.
We handle this across Ottawa and Gatineau
Related problems
Electric stove burner not heating: questions
Why is one burner on my electric stove not working?
On a coil range, the coil may not be seated, or the coil, its receptacle or its switch may have failed. Frigidaire suggests swapping it with a working coil of the same size to see which. On a glass-top range, try a 30-second power reset first.
How do I know if the burner or the socket is bad?
Swap the coil with a working one of the same size, as Frigidaire suggests. If the dead coil heats in the other socket, the socket, switch or wiring is at fault. If it stays cold everywhere, the coil is.
Why does my new stove burner keep turning on and off?
Whirlpool says coils made since June 2018 have a temperature limiter, so the inner coil cycles on and off while the outer coil stays on. GE says all electric burners cycle, even on High. It's normal, but a warped or undersized pan makes it happen more.
Can I replace a stove burner myself?
Plug-in coils are designed to be lifted out and pushed back in, and a matching replacement coil can be fitted the same way with the burners off and cool. If the receptacle is burned, or the range has a glass top, the repair needs a technician.
Is it safe to use the other burners if one isn't working?
Usually, if the dead burner just doesn't heat. If you see sparks, scorch marks or a burning smell at that position, stop using the range until it's checked.
Sources
- Whirlpool Product Help: Coil element not working (ranges)
- Whirlpool Product Help: Coil element not operating correctly
- GE Appliances: Electric range and cooktop - surface burners cycle on and off
- Frigidaire: Ranges - no heating
Sources checked 2026-09-24.
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